There are a couple of longboards living at my house right now and I am really stoked about it. I haven't really been surfing in about 3 or 4 years and I was really scared to go out. Li and I planned to go early the other morning and I purposely didn't wake him up because I was too afraid. Yesterday we took the boards out just to play. As soon as I jumped in the water with my board a huge grin of sheer joy appeared on my face. I love surfing!
We just paddled around at the beach across the street from our house. There was very little chance of actually catching a wave. But what a blast we had pretending!! I love the feel of the water and the board underneath me. I love to sit on it in the middle of the ocean. I love to lay on it and feel the sun on my back. I love paddling and splashing in the water. I love trying to catch waves. And if you get one.....WOW!! But if you don't. I still love surfing.
And I love Li who got me out and cleaned off our boards when we were done. Not to mention the fact that he carried most of the weight on the way to the beach. Longboards are heavy!!
3 comments:
Do you not live in TVA? If you live by hukilau, come over! We're on Lanihuli! Cute bathing suit by the way!! love it!
You are so so so tan!!! I am most definitely jealous.
what an exotic newlywed place to live! have you ever seen the movie gidget? you remind me of that movie. this post really really really makes me wanna go surfing! oh yeah, surfing in hawaii! you're too cute.
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